Alexander Seal

Wantage Tramway No. 7 "Mary"

Introduction

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Prototype

The Manning Wardle & Co. ‘F’ Class 0-4-0ST was one of several standard designs of contractors and industrial locomotives of which a total of 139 were built between 1869 and 1921. The Wantage Tramway obtained works No.1057 of 1888 which was originally supplied to T. A. Walker, one of the contractors on the Manchester Ship Canal, named “Massey No.7”. In 1893 the Wantage Tramway bought the engine and soon after a large cab was fitted. The engine was numbered No.7 and used on the Tramway until closure in 1946. No.7 was then sold to A.R. Adams of Newport who sold it to Cordes Dos Works Ltd., Newport who used her until the works closed in 1964 when the engine was sadly scrapped.

References:

The Wantage Tramway by Nick de Courtais (Wild Swan Publications) Model Railway Journal No.6 (March / April 1986)

 

Manning Wardle F Tank

MRJ 4mm Key Components Pack:

Kit Overview

 

 

Wheels

Colin Dowling of East Side Pilot

Dog Star / Graham: My method for blackening steel wheels and steel rail is:-

1/ mechanical cleaning with fibre-glass brush and 240 grit emery;
2/ degreasing with synthetic cellulose thinners;
3/ chemical cleaning with C&L acid-dip / surface conditioner;
4/ clean rinse and dry;
5/ apply Birchwood Casey for steel with a cotton bud using a rubbing action;
6/ clean rinse and scrub with a toothbrush / nail brush to remove surface residue;
7/ dry with cloth / tissue.

Steph Dale:

If I find I'm soldering near wheel I do the following afterwards:
Aggressive brushing under hot running water with an old toothbrush.
Rub dry the steel parts and then leave on top of the central heating unit.

When blackening the wheel rims are dropped in the ultrasonic with warm water and few drops of IPA.
I then rub IPA over the tyre with a cotton bud.
Leave to dry and then use diluted Birchwood Casey Gun Blue, which I rub on with a cotton bud.
Once the level of blackening is where I want it, I then drop the wheels in clean water.
If I feel like it a blast in the ultrasonic (again with a few drops of IPA) will get rid of any remaining blackening solution
Rub dry the steel parts and then leave on top of the central heating unit.
I then polish the part with bog roll to get rid of any dusting on the surface.
A thin film of oil can then be rubbed on the wheel

Crankpins

http://philsworkbench.blogspot.co.uk/2008/10/slaters-crank-pins.html

Coupling Rods

Tools: Piercing Saw, ? Blades, Wax OR Trimming Knife, Cutting Mat

1. Using a trimming knife and a modeller’s cutting mat the rods are separated from the etch. Hold the knife at a very low angle and just press firmly down with the blade. Piercing saw instead? The etched tabs will be filed away after soldering.

2. Two etched layers make up the coupling rod.

3. To help solder flow freely, it is important that the metal is clean. Marks and tarnishing on the metal are removed by rubbing with Garriflex abrasive rubber (medium grade), available from tool suppliers and specialist model shops.

4. Solder paint (188˚ C) is used, sparingly applied to one side of each part of the joint with a small paintbrush.

5. The sandwich of rods and solder is held in line with a 2.5 mm dia. drill (which matches a slaters crankpin) [CHECK CRANKPIN SIZE]; the molten solder will not stick to a blackened drill, so don’t worry. The drill fits into a hole already drilled into the aluminium plate used as a base and negative connection for my resistance soldering unit, although an ordinary iron will work just as well. The tweezers are useful to align the various pieces in the assembly widthways.

6. The probe of the resistance soldering unit is pressed onto the end of the coupling rod, the switch pressed until the solder melts and then released. The probe (or iron) will maintain pressure on the pieces, keeping them securely in place while they are being soldered. Then move along about 1 cm and repeat the process. If resistance soldering, don’t move the probe with the current on as this can cause arching which may mark the surface badly. On this job, feed a little more solder into the joint; here some Multicore 60/40 tin/lead 22swg cored solder is being used (this is more controllable than the thicker gauges).

7. Solder paste has been wiped onto the other pieces and they are soldered quickly into place (it should take about 1 second to solder the joint). A Slaters 7mm scale track rivet represents the knuckle pin on the coupling rod.

8. CLEAN

9. The coupling rod assembly is now held in a vice (mine is a Record No.0) which has had its jaws replaced or covered with soft mild steel strip – important as the original jaws have a deeply serrated face which could ruin and fine work held in it. A 6in smooth cut handfile is used to clean up the flat edges and a half round needle file is used to finish around the awkward bosses on the ends of the rods.

10. A useful tool to finally clean any marks or stray solder from the face of the rods is a glass fibre pencil which can be rubbed quite forcefully along the metal. Be wary of the fine splinters of glass fibre that are worn away – they can stick in your fingers with painful results and must be kept away from gearboxes and motors (and never blow them off your work or benchtop in case you get them in your eyes. I use a brass suede brush to sweep them and all the other dust into a bin).

Frames

Motor

Torque Reaction Rod

Gear Ratio

Prior to 1910, top speed in MPH equal to the diamerter of the driving wheels in inches.

D (Wheel Diameter) = 2'9" = 33 inches
RPM (no load motor RPM) = 16000 (DN16M)

G = (Pi x D x RPM x 0.7) / (MPH x 1056)

G = (Pi x 33 x 16000 x 0.7) / (33 x 1056) = 33.32