Alexander Seal

GWR 5700 Pannier Tank

 

5757

3752

9769

Great Western Steam Around Bristol – 2 photos working RCTS special over Harbour Lines. BR Black – Late Crest

2mm Scale Association Instructions for conversion of Farish 5700 Pannier Tank

  1. Dismantle Farish loco. Remove the chassis fixing screw from below the chimney. Pull the front of the chassis downwards and draw it forwards from under the body.
  2. Dismantle the Farish mechanism. As exploded view Flg.1. When prising off the brush retaining clips, take care not to lose the springs or brushes. Withdrawing the top brush tube releases It's feed wire. Discard the couplings, wheels, coupling rods and keeper plate. The long wire from the top brush and the capacitor should stay with the cast block if possible. The top frame slides forward out of the crimped-over ears at the rear. Note which way round the magnet fits usually identified by a spot on one side.
  3. Replace the Farish worm. Screw a 1/4" BSF nut on to the worm. Hold the worm In a vice with the armature hanging downwards. Using a punch, tap the spindle through the worm, see flg.2. Cut the replacement worm to 1/4" long. Gently squeeze it on to the spindle In a vice and use a spacer (e.g. an 8BA nut) to press it on as far as it will go. See fig.3.
  4. Enlarge slot for gear. File the 6,5mm long slot to 8,5 or 9mm long to clear the new gearwheel, equally spaced about the axle position. See Flg.4.
  5. Fit axle bushes. Press the axle bushes Into the holes In the side frames from the copper side. Very lightly solder - a little solder paste under the bearing flange is sufficient. Ensure the bearing is right home, flat and square.
  6. Check thickness of casting. Older castings were 6mm thick. Newer castings have raised pads behind some or all of the driving wheels. These pads have to be flied off flat to maintain an even 6mm thickness throughout.
  7. Add tapped holes to chassis block. Thread two 1,5mm drIlls (or short pieces of 1,5 dia. axle steel) through the outer bearings of the two side frames. Lay the drills across the chassis block lying firmly in the axle slots. See fig.5. Hold it all together with elastic bands or two "Bulldog" spring paper clips. Spot through the 3 fixing holes on each side with a 1,3mm drill. If your sideframes have two very closely positioned holes between the front and centre wheels, use the ones nearest the front. Remove the side frames from the cast block and drill with a 1mm drill from each side to allow the 6 holes to be tapped 12BA x 1/8" deep.
  8. File clearance for Muffs. Attach an etched filing guide/shim to each side of the cast block using the 6 tapped holes and the 12BA screws provided In the kit. See Fig.6. Holding the block in a vice and using a 3,5mm dia. file, open the axle slots to the contour of the etch. Try to file exactly to the guide. Do not damage the etches.
  9. Clearance for brake hanger support wires. Spot through the 3 holes In the etches on each side of the block with a 1mm drill. See also fig.6. The holes should be full diameter to a depth of 0,5mm. See fig.7. The finished block is shown in fig.8.
  10. Fit gear. Slide the, new gear to the centre of a muff. See fig.9. Should it be a free fit, glue it on with Araidite ensuring any fillets are kept to a minimum. Remember that the fit will tighten anyway, when the stub axles are pressed In.
  11. Make up the special square washer. Fold over the two layers to make a double thickness. Glue or solder together.
  12. Flt Brake Hanger supports. Stand the two side frames on edge about 6mm apart, copper sides out, and thread through short pieces of 0,3mm N.Silver wire. With the frames parallel and square lightly solder the wires to the copper surfaces - use the minimum amount of solder (paste?). See fig.10. Separate the two frames with cutters and snip off the wires close to the back of the frames. Lightly file off flush to prevent shorting with the casting on assembly.
  13. Add guard irons. Solder or glue on the etched guard Irons ensuring squareness and concentricity of the holes flg.10. Bend the irons outwards and downwards Fig.11. This is now an appropriate time to paint the outside faces of the side frames. Remove any paint from bearing flanges, brake hanger wires and Just round a fixing screw hole on the offside.
  14. Crankpins. Solder or glue the crankpins into the wheels. If using solder, very lightly countersink the rear with the 1,3mm drill to provide space for a fillet.
  15. Chassis re-assembly. Refer to correspondence in Feb/March 2004 Newsletter for help assembling sideframes, wheels and muffs. The six etched shins are to assist in maintaining the necessary side clearances. Fold over and solder together the layers of the coupling rods. Slide the new sideframe/wheel assembly up on the cast block with the shims (filing guides) sandwiched between, one each side. Temporarily secure with the three screws each side. Fit the coupling rods and retain them on the crankpins, with short pieces of plastic Insulation taken from thin wire. Check that the wheels rotate freely.
  16. Motor. Re-assemble the motor, if necessary removing the sideframes again for access. The special square washer goes under the head of the 10BA frame fixing screw and locating between the shims. Do not finally tighten this screw unless the 6 sideframe screws are in and tightened as the cast block could bend. The worm meshing may have to be adjusted by shimming under the plastic frame. Excess screw length should be cut off.
  17. Electrical. The copper surface of the offside frame should be earthed to the chassis block. This is normally done through a fixing screw. If all offside fixing holes have been spotfaced, it may have to be achieved by a short piece of thin wire soldered to the earth side of the capacitor and down to the copper surface. See flg.12. The copper surface of the nearside frame should be isolated from the chassis block. Check this before making the connection to the motor. The long wire from the top brush is shortened and soldered to the nearside copper surface. See Fig.13. Check that the chassis runs with power applied to the wheels. Solder on crankpin washers to finally retain the coupling rods. Leave a little free play.
  18. Finally add the brakes. Fold over the brake shoes, bend line Inwards and glue or solder to the hanger. Fold up the 'U' shaped support at the top of each hanger. See Fig.14. Locate the brakes on the wires protruding from the chassis. Pass wires right across under the chassis through the lower hanger holes and the representation of the operating levers forward of the near irons. See Fig.15. Thread on the brake rods and fix the complete braking assembly together using the minimum of solder. It is recommended that the brake hangers are secured at the top with a small amount of Araldite. Trim off any surplus wire and paint the brake assembly.  -

The last Job Is to remove a short piece from the centres of the four wires which will now be shorting the two sides of the chassis together.

GWR 0-6-0PT ‘5700’ Class

3677
3681 - 01.09.65 Bath (nearly preserved)
3720
3742
3758 -
3795
4631
4634
4673
4691
8436
8486
8745
9626
9647
9670

Books
A Pictorial Record Of Great Western Engines Volume 2 Churchward, Collett & Hawksworth Locomotives A Pictorial Record Of Great Western Engines Volume 2
Churchward, Collett & Hawksworth Locomotives
J. H. Russell
OPC
978-0-86093-399-1		 Buy Online